In recent years, a few fortunate Jewish communities have seen a rebirth of the deli. Ribbons of house-smoked pastrami are layered on loaves of traditional seeded rye and served alongside crunchy house-made pickles. But what of the appetizing shops and dairy delis? Once a staple of Jewish communities, appetizing stores carried rich smoked salmon, fresh bagels, pickled herring and even a handful of sweets like rugelach. Many of the shops have disappeared and an appetizing renaissance hasn’t come yet.
Enter Shelsky’s Smoked Fish, the Brooklyn-based appetizing store which opened their doors for a soft opening yesterday. The tiny shop, which will officially open this weekend, will be serving up an ambitious list of cured and smoked salmon, pickled herring, bagels, bialys and pickles, many of which will be made in-house. A line of clementine and ginger flavored products — a cured salmon, pickled herring and rugelach, to start — named after the owner’s two daughters, will also be featured. And a list of creative sandwiches put the plain bagel and schmear to shame.
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Jewish meat delis have gotten much attention, in the past couple of years (thank you David Sax). But little notices has been given to the fish counter of classic dairy delis. Shelsky’s Smoked Fish, which will open in Brooklyn in the coming month, will offer “smoked salmon, house-pickled herring, house-cured herring, bagels, bialys and rugelach,” reports the Village Voice.