An Israeli-owned car wash on the West Side Highway has become the unlikely source of what may be New York’s most delicious donuts.
No, the guys scrubbing cars aren’t baking in their spare time; former chef Scott Levine, whose resume includes bygone New York foodie temple Chanterelle, where he was executive sous chef, opened Underwest Donuts in December with his wife, fashion stylist Orlee Winer.
Photograph courtesy of Breads Bakery
I cannot tell a lie: I’ve never made sufganiyot. I feel a little sheepish about this, because when you’re a food editor and a recipe developer, as I am, people seem to expect that you’ve done it all.
I was so impressed when I read Gayle Squires’ story last week about tackling jelly doughnuts for the first time, and her step-by-step recipe sounds fabulous, but aside from a short period when I made my own beer-batter-fried fish, and one or two attempts at fried chicken, I’ve just never been the deep-frying kind.
Photograph courtesy of Ilana Schatz
On Hanukkah, chocolate need not be confined to gelt. After tasting one of these warm, chocolate-filled sufganiyot, you won’t want to return to the old jelly-filled standard.
Use fair trade chocolate to ensure the freedom of cocoa workers on the holiday that celebrates the Maccabees’ fight against oppression.
¾ cup warm water
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour (keep some handy for your work surface)
¾ cup sugar
½ tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large eggs, separated
Peanut oil, as necessary
¼ cup 70% Fair Trade bittersweet or milk chocolate
¼ cup raspberry jam (optional)
As winter slides in and makes itself comfy in New York for the next couple of months, locals are — as ever — on the lookout for interesting new edibles in the Hanukkah spirit, even as they pick up boxes of staunchly reliable latkes from Zabars and Russ & Daughters.
Thank goodness for 606 R&D — quite possibly the only hip new Brooklyn restaurant to be serving up a split powdered sugar donut and raspberry jam ‘sandwich’ in honor of the holiday. Not to mention a special potato pancake appetizer served with a dollop of creme fraiche and a slaw of beet, apple and celery root. And while these are definitely special holiday items, stop by 606 R&D year-round for delicious classic cake donuts (inspired by Dreesen’s Famous Donuts in the Hamptons and made by a Kickstarter-funded donut robot) and some extremely tasty latke cousins (try the carrot parsnip pancakes or the cauliflower pakoras).
So what’s the story behind the marriage of such inventive culinary whimsy with such old world Brooklyn Jewish sensibilities?
If you’re going to take advice from someone on how to make a proper latke, that person should be Melissa Clark. [New York Times]
Everything you ever wanted to know about hosting a latke party. [Serious Eats]
Latkes goes modernist. [Saveur]
Try them with….brown butter and cinnamon applesauce. [Serious Eats]
Looking to celebrate the holiday of oil without covering your kitchen in it? Here’s a great list of events. [Serious Eats]
Hanukkah often feels like a week-long calorie splurge. Between the fried latkes, sufganiyot (Hebrew for doughnuts), and chocolate gelt, the extra calories can really add up quickly in our diets. But maybe there’s a way to enjoy the holiday’s celebration of oil and sweets a bit more healthfully? Indeed there is!
Resist the urge to deep fry. Try a baked latke recipe, and if you really are craving that extra crispiness achieved from frying, pan-fry them in a small amount of oil and then finish them off by baking in the oven.
Pack in some fiber. Instead of using white flour, use whole wheat flour to get some extra fiber into your latkes. You can also mix in other vegetables into your potato latkes, like zucchini, carrots, and parsnips, to boost the fiber and antioxidant content.
Throughout Hanukkah donut aficionado Temim Fruchter has shared with us the best donuts from coast to coast to devour during the holiday. In case you missed any of the first seven nights, here’s a recap:
The Donut Diaries - First Night
The Donut Diaries - Second Night
The Donut Diaries – Third Night
The Donut Diaries – Fourth and Fifth Nights
The Donut Diaries – Sixth Night
The Donut Diaries – Seventh Night
And (finally) the Eight Night…