The Jew And The Carrot

Einat Admony's Bar Bolonat Set To Open

By Michael Kaminer

  • Print
  • Share Share
Courtesy of Einat Admony

To the many salivating fans of Israeli-born star chef Einat Admony: Your wait is nearly over.

After seemingly endless construction issues, Department of Buildings complications, and “a million little details,” Admony’s much-anticipated Bar Bolonat will finally open March 25 in the West Village.

“The private dining area downstairs took forever,” the chef told the Forward from her car. “It took us a year and three months to build this place. But I finally feel comfortable with how it looks.”

Aficionados of Balaboosta, Admony’s four-year-old, Middle-Eastern-inspired Nolita hotspot, can expect “happy surprises” at the new place, Admony said.

“Balaboosta feels rustic, and the food’s homey and simple,” she said. “The food at Bar Bolonat is more refined, the plating is beautiful, and there’s a lot of play between savory and sweet ingredients.”

And while Balaboosta describes itself as “Mediterranean meets Middle East,” Bar Bolonat’s cuisine will circle back to the chef’s own upbringing in the Israeli town Bnei Brak, including traditional Ashkenazi food.

“Most of my life I’ve been traveling,” she said. “There are a lot of influences in my food. But after all this traveling, I realized I’m most comfortable with what I grew up with. I have a big love for Indian and Thai, and I eat all kinds of cuisine. Israeli cuisine is still my favorite, and I think where I’m strongest.

But Bar Bolonat won’t be “what you thought Israeli cuisine is about,” says Admony. It’s more her own take on the food, “It’s inspired by snacks of Israel, spices in different combinations that people aren’t quite aware of. You see tahini and zaatar everywhere now. My goal to take it to a new level. It’s a very different challenge than Balaboosta.”

Vegetables will also dominate Bar Bolonat’s menu. “It’s very veg-driven,” Admony said. “I want to be true to what I cook at home. There’s meat and turkey shawarma on the menu. But I cook a lot of vegetables for my family, and there’s a lot on the new menu.”

Admony previewed some of Bar Bolonat’s fare for the Forward. A roasted poussin (chicken) with pomegranate sauce on Persian yellow rice “feels very Israeli to me,” she said. “We did a pomegranate sauce at Balaboosta a while ago, and people were licking the plate.”

The chef sounded especially proud of Bar Bolonat’s desserts, like a luscious chocolate falafel. “It’s a beautiful chocolate ganache covered with coconut and chickpeas served with crème anglaise and basil sauce,” she said. The basil sauce is a witty spinoff on schug, the green spicy and garlicky “Yemeni salsa” Admony serves at Taim, the Waverly Place fast-casual spot that was her first solo venture.

On the Ashkenazi tip, Admony will debut a spectacular-sounding noodle kugel with hawaij, a traditional mix of spices like cardamom, ginger, and clove usually used in coffee. It’ll come with sour-cream rum-raisin ice cream. “It’s taking these cultures and bringing them together in an elegant way.”

One huge difference between Balaboosta’s kitchen and Bar Bolonat’s: Gas. Admony’s cooked at Balaboosta with only electric appliances. “Now, we can serve food in cast-iron or regular pans,” she said. “I can serve shakshuka the way I wanted. At Balaboosta, we put it in a terra cotta dish. Here, we’ll serve it on a metal sauté pan.” Shakshuka will appear on Bar Bolonat’s “amazing” brunch menu, Admony said.

And what do Israelis think when they taste some of the foods they grew up with on Admony’s menus? “They’re a very hard crowd to please,” she laughed. “But some dishes they go crazy over. They love the Israeli street fare at Balaboosta. A lot of Israelis come because it reminds them of home. There are some things on the menu they can understand more than any American.”


Permalink | | Share | Email | Print | Filed under: einat admony, Bar bolonat

The Jewish Daily Forward welcomes reader comments in order to promote thoughtful discussion on issues of importance to the Jewish community. In the interest of maintaining a civil forum, The Jewish Daily Forwardrequires that all commenters be appropriately respectful toward our writers, other commenters and the subjects of the articles. Vigorous debate and reasoned critique are welcome; name-calling and personal invective are not. While we generally do not seek to edit or actively moderate comments, our spam filter prevents most links and certain key words from being posted and The Jewish Daily Forward reserves the right to remove comments for any reason.




Find us on Facebook!
  • According to a new poll, 75% of Israeli Jews oppose intermarriage.
  • Will Lubavitcher Rabbi Moshe Wiener be the next Met Council CEO?
  • Angelina Jolie changed everything — but not just for the better:
  • Prime Suspect? Prime Minister.
  • Move over Dr. Ruth — there’s a (not-so) new sassy Jewish sex-therapist in town. Her name is Shirley Zussman — and just turned 100 years old.
  • From kosher wine to Ecstasy, presenting some of our best bootlegs:
  • Sara Kramer is not the first New Yorker to feel the alluring pull of the West Coast — but she might be the first heading there with Turkish Urfa pepper and za’atar in her suitcase.
  • About 1 in 40 American Jews will get pancreatic cancer (Ruth Bader Ginsberg is one of the few survivors).
  • At which grade level should classroom discussions include topics like the death of civilians kidnapping of young Israelis and sirens warning of incoming rockets?
  • Wanted: Met Council CEO.
  • “Look, on the one hand, I understand him,” says Rivka Ben-Pazi, a niece of Elchanan Hameiri, the boy that Henk Zanoli saved. “He had a family tragedy.” But on the other hand, she said, “I think he was wrong.” What do you think?
  • How about a side of Hitler with your spaghetti?
  • Why "Be fruitful and multiply" isn't as simple as it seems:
  • William Schabas may be the least of Israel's problems.
  • You've heard of the #IceBucketChallenge, but Forward publisher Sam Norich has something better: a #SoupBucketChallenge (complete with matzo balls!) Jon Stewart, Sarah Silverman & David Remnick, you have 24 hours!
  • from-cache

Would you like to receive updates about new stories?




















We will not share your e-mail address or other personal information.

Already subscribed? Manage your subscription.