The Jew And The Carrot

Glasserie Just Became a Bit More Israeli

By Devra Ferst

  • Print
  • Share Share

Eldad Shem Tov watches over his kitchen at Shakuf in 2011. Photo: Courtesy of Haaretz.

New York’s food scene is one of the most rapidly changing on the planet. But every once in a while, it pauses — and critics, chefs and hungry city dwellers seem to hone in on one restaurant. Lately, that spot has been Glasserie, a creative Middle Eastern inflected restaurant in a desolate corner of Greenpoint.

Chef Sara Kramer, who built the restaurant’s menu of lamb and bulgur croquettes, an extraordinary whole rabbit dish and sides of tahini and labneh, announced today that she will leaving Glasserie’s kitchen in the coming weeks. Israeli-born Eldad Shem Tov, who trained at Noma and already works alongside Kramer, will be taking her place. With the move, he’ll join the ranks of only a handful of Israeli-born chefs to captain a restaurant that’s garnered national attention.

Two years ago Shem Tov was running Shakuf, perhaps the most high-minded restaurants to ever come to Israel. The Jaffa-based restaurant served 60 diners around a U-shaped kitchen, which served as dinner theater. “I saw what a European restaurant looks like, how much the chefs put into it, and I started conceptualizing Shakuf,” he told Haaretz in 2011. “Israeli restaurants, even the finest ones, work with eight raw materials and four cooking methods. I wanted to diversify. Not another yogurt, olive oil, seared shrimp, beef chunks and lentils on an electric grill. I wanted to study the vegetables around us and give them a different and more in-depth treatment.”

Since leaving Shakuf, Shem Tov’s style seems to have relaxed. Glasserie owner Sara Conklin told Grub Street: “His food is soulful and rustic, and a natural fit for Glasserie.”

Whether he’ll change up the menu — and whether Glasserie will continue to hold New York’s attention — is still unknown.


Permalink | | Share | Email | Print | Filed under: shakuf, israeli food nyc, glasserie, eldad shem tov

The Jewish Daily Forward welcomes reader comments in order to promote thoughtful discussion on issues of importance to the Jewish community. In the interest of maintaining a civil forum, The Jewish Daily Forwardrequires that all commenters be appropriately respectful toward our writers, other commenters and the subjects of the articles. Vigorous debate and reasoned critique are welcome; name-calling and personal invective are not. While we generally do not seek to edit or actively moderate comments, our spam filter prevents most links and certain key words from being posted and The Jewish Daily Forward reserves the right to remove comments for any reason.




Find us on Facebook!
  • British Jews are having their 'Open Hillel' moment. Do you think Israel advocacy on campus runs the risk of excluding some Jewish students?
  • "What I didn’t realize before my trip was that I would leave Uganda with a powerful mandate on my shoulders — almost as if I had personally left Egypt."
  • Is it better to have a young, fresh rabbi, or a rabbi who stays with the same congregation for a long time? What do you think?
  • Why does the leader of Israel's social protest movement now work in a beauty parlor instead of the Knesset?
  • What's it like to be Chagall's granddaughter?
  • Is pot kosher for Passover. The rabbis say no, especially for Ashkenazi Jews. And it doesn't matter if its the unofficial Pot Day of April 20.
  • A Ukrainian rabbi says he thinks the leaflets ordering Jews in restive Donetsk to 'register' were a hoax. But the disturbing story still won't die.
  • Some snacks to help you get through the second half of Passover.
  • You wouldn't think that a Soviet-Jewish immigrant would find much in common with Gabriel Garcia Marquez. But the famed novelist once helped one man find his first love. http://jd.fo/f3JiS
  • Can you relate?
  • The Forverts' "Bintel Brief" advice column ran for more than 65 years. Now it's getting a second life — as a cartoon.
  • Half of this Hillel's members believe Jesus was the Messiah.
  • Vinyl isn't just for hipsters and hippies. Israeli photographer Eilan Paz documents the most astonishing record collections from around the world:http://jd.fo/g3IyM
  • Could Spider-Man be Jewish? Andrew Garfield thinks so.
  • Most tasteless video ever? A new video shows Jesus Christ dying at Auschwitz.
  • from-cache

Would you like to receive updates about new stories?




















We will not share your e-mail address or other personal information.

Already subscribed? Manage your subscription.