The Jew And The Carrot

A Taste of the Tenements

By Anne Cohen

  • Print
  • Share Share
David X. Prutting/
Cake in the shape of 97 Orchard Street

If you’re an American Jew, there’s a pretty good chance that somewhere, somehow, someone in your family made dinner on the Lower East Side.

Though the area has been home to a countless nationalities and ethnic groups, it holds a special place in the hearts of American Jews, many of whom can trace their first foothold in the country back to “the old neighborhood.”

On June 5, the Tenement Museum celebrated its 25th anniversary, and the 150th anniversary of the restored building at 97 Orchard Street, which housed over 7,000 people from more than 20 countries from 1863 to 1935.

As a tribute to the many sights and smells imprinted into the tenement’s walls, the gala was set up as an edible timeline, a “taste of the tenements,” catered by current local vendors and restaurants and inspired by the neighborhood’s residents. Here’s a window into what they would have been eating, and where you can find those treats today.

1860s-1880s: Oysters, whiskey, and hard cheese.

In the 19th century, more than 7.5 million people came to the United States from Ireland, many of them settling in the Lower East Side neighborhood known as the Five Points (named for the shape of the intersection of what is now Baxter Street and Mosco Street).

“The Irish were really important as fishmongers in the 19th century,” explained Jane Ziegelman, author of “97 Orchard; An edible history of five immigrant families,” also in attendance. “So, it makes sense that we’re eating oysters and listening to an Irish trio.”

Where to get it: Grey Lady, Salty Susan, Whistlepig Whiskey, Murray’s Cheese,

1860s-1880s: Pretzels, bratwurst, sauerkraut, and lager beer.

The first German immigrants started arriving in the 1850s. In the mid-to-late half of the 19th century, the Lower East side was affectionately known as “Kleindeustchland,” or little Germany.

From 1864-1886, John and Caroline Schneider operated a saloon from the basement of 97 Orchard, serving lager beer and hearty German fare to homesick neighbors.

Where to get it:Sigmund’s Pretzels, Café Katja, Top Hops

1900s-1910s: Herring, pickles, bialys, stuffed cabbage.

By 1898, the Lower East Side held the largest concentration of Jews in the world. Most of them were Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe, but as Ziegelman reminds us, the first Jews actually arrived with the first German immigration wave in the 1850s and 60s.

97 Orchard was also home to the Confino family from Greece, who moved to New York in 1913. As Sephardic Jews, their cooking would have been as foreign to their Ashkenazi neighbors as smoked herring was to the Italians that followed.

During the gala, a museum educator, dressed to the nines, played the part of Victoria Confino, bride to be, who showed guests what kinds of things she would have kept handy in her kitchen. Cinnamon, all spice, cumin and ground coriander were passed around, along with dulce de rosas, a syrup made from rose petals, sugar water and lemon.

Asking us what we thought about the food, Victoria exclaimed: “I’m to be married soon and if his mama don’t like my cooking, she kill me!” Some things never change.

Where to get it: Russ & Daughters, The Pickle Guys, Hot Bread Kitchen, Noah’s Ark

1920s-1930s: Prosciutto, meatballs, pasta, and Parmesan cheese.

Remember those street scenes from the Godfather Part II? By 1910 over 350,000 Italians lived in New York City.

Adolfo and Rosario Baldizzi and their children, Sicilian immigrants, lived at 97 Orchard from 1928 until the building was closed in 1935, deemed unfit for inhabitation by the city’s new housing codes.

Where to get it: DiPalo’s Fine Foods, The Meatball Shop, Sauce, Saxelby Cheesemongers

1930s-1940s: Spanakopita, taramosolata, tzatziki, mousaka,pita, and croquettes.

Though Astoria, Queens, is where you’d go for authentic Greek food today, the Lower East Side was the first stop for many families, who later moved out of Manhattan as their socio-economic status improved.

Where to get it: Zenon Taverna, Souvlaki GR

1950s-1970s: Sesame noodles, dim sum, and dumplings.

In 1882, President Chester A. Arthur signed the Chinese Exclusion Act, which banned all immigration of Chinese laborers to the United States. Thought it was originally only supposed to last for 10 years, an amendment in 1902 made it permanent. The act was repealed with the Magnuson Act in 1943, but large-scale Chinese immigration didn’t occur until the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965.

103 Orchard Street, where the museum now stands, welcomed the first Chinese families.

Where to get it: Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine, Dim Sum Go-Go, Vanessa’s Dumplings

1960s-1980s: Codfish fritters, avocado salad, fried plantains with pork.

Well after its traditional immigrant inhabitants had moved uptown or to the outer boroughs, the smells wafting down to the streets continued to mirror the changing populations of the Lower East Side, mostly from China and the Dominican Republic.

Where to get it: Palo Santo, Great Performances

Today: All of the above.

Today, the Lower East Side has come a long way from its tenement past. As one of the most rapidly gentrifying and trendy neighborhoods in New York, it remains the go-to destination for food lovers in the city and beyond looking for exotic new flavors, or just a little taste of home.

Permalink | | Share | Email | Print | Filed under: tenement museum, sephardic, russ and daughters, oysters, pickles, lower east side, jewish, jane ziegelman, italian, irish, immigrant, herring, greek, german, gala, food, dominican, chinese, bialys, 97 orchard, 25th anniversary

The Jewish Daily Forward welcomes reader comments in order to promote thoughtful discussion on issues of importance to the Jewish community. In the interest of maintaining a civil forum, The Jewish Daily Forwardrequires that all commenters be appropriately respectful toward our writers, other commenters and the subjects of the articles. Vigorous debate and reasoned critique are welcome; name-calling and personal invective are not. While we generally do not seek to edit or actively moderate comments, our spam filter prevents most links and certain key words from being posted and The Jewish Daily Forward reserves the right to remove comments for any reason.

Find us on Facebook!
  • Lusia Horowitz left pre-state Israel to fight fascism in Spain — and wound up being captured by the Nazis and sent to die at Auschwitz. Share her remarkable story — told in her letters.
  • Vered Guttman doesn't usually get nervous about cooking for 20 people, even for Passover. But last night was a bit different. She was cooking for the Obamas at the White House Seder.
  • A grumpy Jewish grandfather is wary of his granddaughter's celebrating Easter with the in-laws. But the Seesaw says it might just make her appreciate Judaism more. What do you think?
  • “Twist and Shout.” “Under the Boardwalk.” “Brown-Eyed Girl.” What do these great songs have in common? A forgotten Jewish songwriter. We tracked him down.
  • What can we learn from tragedies like the rampage in suburban Kansas City? For one thing, we must keep our eyes on the real threats that we as Jews face.
  • When is a legume not necessarily a legume? Philologos has the answer.
  • "Sometime in my childhood, I realized that the Exodus wasn’t as remote or as faceless as I thought it was, because I knew a former slave. His name was Hersh Nemes, and he was my grandfather." Share this moving Passover essay!
  • Getting ready for Seder? Chag Sameach!
  • "We are not so far removed from the tragedies of the past, and as Jews sit down to the Seder meal, this event is a teachable moment of how the hatred of Jews-as-Other is still alive and well. It is not realistic to be complacent."
  • Aperitif Cocktail, Tequila Shot, Tom Collins or Vodka Soda — Which son do you relate to?
  • Elvis craved bacon on tour. Michael Jackson craved matzo ball soup. We've got the recipe.
  • This is the face of hatred.
  • What could be wrong with a bunch of guys kicking back with a steak and a couple of beers and talking about the Seder? Try everything. #ManSeder
  • BREAKING: Smirking killer singled out Jews for death in suburban Kansas City rampage. 3 die in bloody rampage at JCC and retirement home.
  • Real exodus? For Mimi Minsky, it's screaming kids and demanding hubby on way down to Miami, not matzo in the desert.
  • from-cache

Would you like to receive updates about new stories?

We will not share your e-mail address or other personal information.

Already subscribed? Manage your subscription.